Contradictions and dichotomies - techno-classicism, future histories, modernism, an anti-heroic masculinity. The Prada Fall/Winter 2020 menswear collection presents synchronous yet antonymous viewpoints on tradition, on the known, on nature - human, and otherwise. A fantasizing of the classic.
Paradoxes fuse. Technology of today will become history: the present is constantly creating a forthcoming past. Perspective and context are tools to transform through juxtaposition, displacement, contrast.
The collection constantly explores an uncertain metaphysical hinterland, caught between two poles, seen from a different vantage. This idea is expressed boldly through fabrication: traditional materials are combined with technologically innovative, recycled fibres in chromatic colours. Those are an immediate means of translation, or recontextualising.
Technology can also become a tool for subversion, classicism used as a Trojan Horse: garment types reflect anachronistic tradition but their materiality is deceptive, cashmere knits imbued with stretch to enable extreme fits. Silhouette vacillates between streamlined and voluminous, each challenges, undermines and ultimately explodes our prosaic reflections of male power and force.
Brightly-coloured, two-dimensional, a representation or gesture rather than a reality, while stylised graphics and colours echo an unnatural nature. A completely conceived environment is reflected in a postmodern panopticon, a surreal court within which the men are endlessly observed.
THE SHOWSPACE SET UP
For the 2020 Fall/Winter Prada Menswear show, AMO transforms the grand hall of the Deposito, the multifunctional venue for performances that is part of the Fondazione Prada complex, into a set of imaginary piazzas that manifest the abstract energy of the public arena.
After ascending a grand staircase, guests enter the show space on a raised platform overlooking two identical voids, each containing the same fictional outdoor space. The scene is bare: a series of portals organized symmetrically around the courts mark a threshold between a public space and an enigmatic porch, concealed behind the architecture. An abstract statue takes the center of the space, providing a focal point and a three dimensional axis. Sharp projections of the statue on the floor, mimicking the long shadows of a Fall afternoon, define the squares and enhance their graphic composition. Behind the sequence of openings on the porch, a strong red light provides depth to the configuration marking the transition in the space.
The relationship between the fashion on stage and the audience gathered above is simultaneously detached and voyeuristic. Models wander through the space, appearing and disappearing, following invisible trajectories that blur the boundary between the exposed and the concealed.
Concept di OMA/AMO