探索工作的重要性:其价值、意义与内涵。Miuccia Prada打造的Miu Miu 2026春夏系列,是一场对女性工作的审视——探讨女性在工作中的挑战、困境与体验。该系列直面“女性工作常被忽视”的现状,试图打破这种隐形壁垒,让女性工作获得认可与珍视。
工作是努力的具象表达。工作是关怀与爱意的象征。工作是独立精神的映照,亦是自我能动性的体现。围裙,作为全球通用的工作符号,在本系列中被赋予庄重感与尊重。围裙兼具实用性与装饰性,是对功能与用途的思考。其文化意涵也会随材质与形态的变化而发生深刻转变——从家庭场景到医疗环境,再到工业领域;从体力劳作到照护工作;从第一、第三产业到家庭生活空间。一件围裙,承载万千场景与意义。
游走于这些承袭的美学符号间,情感也随之流转。系列灵感部分源自Dorothea Lange(1895-1965)与Helga Paris(1938-2024)纪实摄影中的工厂作业影像,为服饰设计提供了贴近现实的视角。工业风格的斜纹布与皮革、棉府绸、丝质泡泡纱、蕾丝、粗帆布刺绣等材质,共同构建系列质感。鞋履、手袋与配饰以富有肌理的皮革,映现坚韧与实用理念,彰显工业美学魅力。而作为富有代表性的女性化符号,荷叶边在此以颠覆性效果呈现,刚毅与柔美并存。这种设计既挑战了社会对“女性特质”的固有定义、衍生观念与预想,更对其进行反向重构。
秀场布置将巴黎耶纳宫柱殿转化为日常居家场景,让这个本身即是工作场所之地抽象演绎系列精髓。错落排布的Formica案桌以对比色调,构筑视觉焦点。
“I want to talk about women’s work, using my work. Women’s work – from factories, to service, to care-giving and the home. Across all, the apron as a symbol of work that can express multiple messages and ideas about all these different genres of work. And deeper, it talks about the effort and challenges of women.”
“The apron is my favorite piece of clothing – it is something I have been obsessed with, from before even my earliest collections, and it has always been present in Miu Miu. This is the first time we have made it the focus of a collection. The apron fascinates me as an emblem. It symbolizes women, from factories through to serving to the home. It is about protection and care – for me, it is a symbol of the effort and hardship of women.”
“This collection was the result of an enormous amount of research, into reality, reflections of real dress. The photography of Dorothea Lange and Helga Paris, documenting working women across the last century; Louis Malle’s film Humain, trop Humain (1974). Luis Buñuel’s Le journal d’une femme de chambre (1964) – while fiction, has a root in reality. We observed them all. Malle filmed in the Citroën factory in Rennes in 1972 – that is a true window into the lives of women.”
Miuccia Prada